THE spring/summer 2013 shows might be over, but they've left a whole lot of trends and fashion talking points behind - and come next year, you'll be spoilt for choice when it comes to planning your wardrobe.
Do you prefer pastels or neons? Will you go graphic in squares and plaid? Or will you dare to bare in the new cropped proportions? Before you make those all-important decisions, let us guide you through the season's sartorial ways with our A to Z trend guide - as well as elaborate on those talking points.
For it was a season of change and new beginnings - Jil Sander returned to the house she founded in 1973; Hedi Slimane returned to YSL but now it's called Saint Laurent and this time he is creative director of womenswear not menswear; and Raf Simons made his Dior ready-to-wear debut.
And just as much as it was a season of lateral thinking (squares and stripes make for the new prints and patterns), it was one of fun too: just take a look at Prada's wooden tower shoes, Celine's red fur Birkenstock sandal styles, the Lego colours and plastic chain bags at Versus and the wind turbines that propelled the models down the catwalk at Chanel. Enjoy.
Loewe.B is for Bombers: They were thejacket style of choice this season – who didn't have at least one in their collection? The most beautiful and elegant came courtesy of Loewe (all embossed with roses or bejewelled with giant flowers), while Jonathan Saunders made them metallic, Erdem kept them sweet, and Chanel, Stella McCartney, Antipodium and Zoe Jordan kept them sporty and simple.
Alexander McQueen.C is for Cropped: Come spring/summer 2013, it's time to think short. Balenciaga and Chanel were among those that showed us how to do cropped jackets (with a ruffled skirt at the former and a neat little shift beneath at the latter), while Alexander McQueen showed us why cropped trousers are the way forward: to show off those scythe shoes.
Prada.D is for Daria Strokous: The new model name to know, she opened the Dior show, as well as Lanvin, and closed Prada, Alberta Ferretti and Donna Karan.
Philip Treacy.E is for Eighties Icons: Jean Paul Gaultier went back to the Eighties for a collection that celebrated all of the Eighties icons that inspired him and his clothes over the years – Sade, Boy George, Madonna and more. Olivier Rousteing at Balmain also found inspiration in Sade for a collection that drew on her look, all powerful shoulders and slicked back hair (we saw those power shoulders at Lanvin and Roland Mouret too). Elsewhere Philip Treacy paid tribute to Michael Jackson by showing his hat creations alongside a special Michael Jackson-themed wardrobe.
Holly Fulton.F is for Flower Power: In both the Sixties hippy sense and in the floral decorative sense. At Prada and Holly Fulton we saw huge blooms decorate every surface (on furs slung over the shoulder at the former and as big 3D blooms on the latter), while at Moschino and Versus it was the fun Austen Powers-style spirit of the decade we saw rubbing off.
Alberta Ferretti.I is for Iridescence: Get ready to shine next summer thanks to Alberta Ferretti, Peter Pilotto, Mary Katrantzou, Antonio Berardi, Giles, Roksanda Ilincic, Bottega Veneta, Anne Valerie Hash, Balmain, Viktor & Rolf (who were inspired by mirrors for their collection), and Louis Vuitton (where the smallest sequins ever produced were used). Embellishment isn't just a party-season thing.
Antonio Marras.L is for Laduree Colours: It was one of the sweetest seasons we've seen and designers in London especially were appealing to our sweet sartorial tooth with spearmint, fondant pink, violet, lemon and baby-blue shades. We saw them at Erdem, Christopher Kane, Michael Van Der Ham, Corrie Neilsen, Meadham Kirchhoff, Emilia Wickstead, Mulberry, and later Antonio Marras, Fendi, Ports 1961, Prada, Sonia Rykiel, Viktor & Rolf and Valentino.
EB
No comments:
Post a Comment